It was entirely fitting that for our 25th (really?) Hot, Hot, Hot trip we returned to Croatia since that was our first cruising ground back in 2021. This was our 5th trip, previously we have sailed out of Primosten, Split, Rogoniza and Pula. On this occasion Skradin, slightly inland and home to the Krka Falls, was our starting point.
Boats were chartered from Istion Yachting and 15 HOEOCA members gathered in the tree lined ACI Marina, having arrived from both Zadar and Split, many flying in before the day. Our boats were ready in good time, giving us the afternoon for handovers, provisioning, and settling in before all dining in the pretty garden at Skala Restaurant. Some tried the Skradin Rissoto, a veal-based dish which takes 12 hours to cook. Coincidentally the Skradin Risotto festival place was taking place that day and, although we missed the cookery demonstration in the afternoon, some enjoyed the live band and party atmosphere after dinner.
Sunday morning, our fleet, consisting of three very well appointed 2023 and 2024 Sun Odysseys: First Date, First Touch and First Passion (all the boats in the fleet were similarly named which caused much amusement) set off under the bridge over the motorway and through down the stunning gorge for a short leg of c12NM, past Sibenik and onto the small, carless island of Zladin. What a stunner we thought until an early evening wind got up and we encountered various issues which resulted in some damage to our boats and necessitated the crew of First Date being redistributed onto the other two boats to sleep! Some were literally in their swimming togs and without phones. It was a bit of a squash! Definitely a night to remember.
Consequently Monday was an early start to repatriate crew back to their boat before setting off. All headed to Tribunj, on the mainland, where the very efficient Istion Yachting had arranged for repairs to happen. Two men with a small cherry picker soon took the rigging apart on First Passion and replaced the damaged spar then inspected that on First Touch. They decided that the bathing platform on First Date could be repaired on return to base - they’d just have to sail with it down all week.
Leaving Skradin
A man up our mast!
First Touch - Lake Telasca
Just showing off
All was sorted by 1130 and we were able to resume our planned journey toward Lake Telašćica on Dugi Otok, a National Park with a hefty €90 overnight charge. It was a rather cloudy day with a few spots of rain. We were all able to sail for part of it but the islands got in the way (!) so had to do some motoring to make the 30NM. First Date stopped at Otok Katina on the outskirts of the park where they were on a restaurant jetty. The other two boats opted for the more tranquil top end of the lake where they anchored for the night and ate on board.
Tuesday morning dawned still, blue and sunny and an opportunity for us all try out the paddle boards (SUPs) which were included in the charter fee, some with more success than others. Our next destination was a 20NM hop to Biograd and we all enjoyed some excellent sailing when the wind allowed, weaving between the numerous islands. Some even managed a swim stop. We'd planned this night in a marina (€130!) in order to restock and have a decent shower. Happily there was a good Konzum supermarket very close by. First Date arrived late after a rather scary problem with their foresail and ate on board. The other boats enjoyed drinks on deck and a meal together (probably the cheapest of the week) at Restaurant Peperino in the square.
Wednesday was another lovely day, although a bit short on wind, so sailing was slow. Today’s plans were somewhat more fluid and so First Date decided to return to an anchorage they'd spotted on Zut whilst others headed for Jezera on the south end of Murter with First Passion opting for the marina and First Touch at anchor outside.
View from First Date outside Jereza
View from Zut for First Touch
and yummy Ice Creams for First Passion
Throughout the week we’d been keeping an eye on the weather which, so far, had been better than forecast. However later on Thursday was looking quite tasty and so we needed to be attached to land! After some truly champagne sailing First Touch and First Passion managed to be two of a dozen yachts on the harbour at the tiny island of Kaprije, another carless paradise. First Date, starting from further north, missed out on this so headed for Sibenik.
Sure enough, whilst seated admiring the lightening show, the storm arrived all of a sudden and chaos ensued with waiters zipping up plastic windows, skippers returning to boats to check all was well, and detach passerelles, and the restaurant floor flooded. And, in the middle of all this the ferry arrived! Never mind, after 30 – 40 minutes dinner arrived and a memorable evening ensued.
As is so often the case, the following day was blue and dead calm as we motored to Sibenik for one of the best organised fuelling pontoon experiences ever and a lunch at anchor off the pretty village of Zaton. All three boats arrived back at base together for the customary debrief and inspection by the excellent Istion Yachting before heading to Bonaca Restaurant for a last meal together after what had proved to be an excellent trip in a very lovely area.
In the morning some left for Split and Zadar Airports, a couple for stays in Sibenik and Zadar and seven of us (plus Ray R’s family) stayed on in lovely Skradin to visit the Krka Falls and further explore the area.
The last supper
Route for First Passion - 142NM
Krka Falls - stunning
Cost of 1 week charter: £560 (including obligatory indemnity insurance)
Boat Kitty: First Passion £395 (transit log, tourist tax, food & drink and mooring fees)
Plus flights and personal spending money





