Fifty Shades of Grey (the Sailing Version)

There, that grabbed your attention, didn’t it. Now that I’ve got it, full disclosure. I haven’t read the book(s) myself, but I’m reliably informed that they’re full of all sorts of malarkey, some of it involving ropework. Now that’s about the only similarity with what follows, since I’ve avoided using phrases such as “clouds pregnant with rain”, although I might very truthfully have done so.

This is a brief account of the exploits of the crew of Iota of Ashton, a Beneteau Oceanis 411, chartered from Oban Yacht Charters to participate in the HOEOCA Scottish sailing trip, 4 -11 July 2026. We had three yachts, the other two being Star of Oban, skippered by Martin Woods and Morning Star, skippered by David Gilchrist. We were also joined by Chris and Mandy Dowson who had sailed up from Ardfern on Entre Amis.

The yacht crews had travelled up from various locations, some over two days, some on the same day. Whilst we didn’t particularly wish to sail in searing heat, the relentless greyness and drizzle that greeted us in Oban was a bit downcasting. However, conveniently, it was dry to get the gear on the boats. The original plan was for the charter boats to get to Loch Aline on the first night to take advantage of the pontoons, showers and outdoor sauna...Unfortunately, our boat had a hiccup. We discovered  our click and collect from Tesco wasn’t quite the full complement so we had to return to the shop to get the missing items. The other two boats set off around 5pm but we remained in Oban and hoping to catch up the following day.

Sunday 5 July

Up before 5am to a dryish morning, although very overcast, to get underway at 6am to catch the tide, heading for Tobermory. We had a nice sail initially, but the wind died as we passed the entrance to Loch Aline, so the engine went on. Iota has quite a beast of an engine, 55hp, so no issues with power. We arrived in Tobermory just as the rain started to get a bit more organised and serious, so our timing worked well. Chris and Mandy from Entre Amis took our lines and then joined us for kaffee und kuchen, the cake courtesy of Sally. As the sun wasn’t yet over the yardarm (even if we’d been able to see it through the murk), that seemed more appropriate than alcohol. Star of Oban and then Morning Star also arrived; thanks to Martin and David for allowing Iota to catch up. The rain continued in earnest all evening and well into the night. The crew of Iota ventured no further than the shore-based heads and after a meal on board and some cards, we retired fairly early. Party poopers!

Monday 6 July

The skippers of the charter yachts had agreed to sail to Loch Scresort on Rum, so we all set off around 7.30am into yet another dreich day with very poor visibility and rain on and off, conditions that lasted throughout the day. Entre Amis had decided to remain in Tobermory for that day. We headed out into the Sound of Mull towards the Ardnamurchan peninsula. Iota cheated a bit by motor-sailing around the point to avoid having to put a tack in. On such an unpleasant day, that seemed like a good cheat! So much for rufty-tufty sailors… We had a fair tide under us, sailed to the east of Muck and the west of Eigg, at one point hitting 10 knots over the ground. Iota sails well! As we progressed up the east side of Rum, there were occasionally very strong gusts coming down from Askival and its outlier, Hallival, on the east side of the island. Askival is one of the Corbetts (a Scottish mountain between 2,500 and 3,000 feet high) on Rum. As we turned west into Loch Scresort, the wind was gusting up to 25 knots; we were expecting a sheltered mooring, but it was not to be. We picked up a mooring buoy and the weather briefly brightened up, as the other two boats followed us in. It was a great sail, most enjoyable despite the weather. Given the conditions, strong winds and rain, there was no boat visiting, sadly. Another meal on board, more cards and bed; a peaceful night.

Tuesday 7 July

We woke to the usual weather, another dreich day, despite the heatwave we had left behind us at home. The forecast I looked at suggested that the wind would remain fairly strong over the next couple of days and would move into the south. After we discussed options as a crew, we decided to go to an anchorage on the north side of the Ardnamurchan peninsula, Camas an Lighe. The two other charter boats set off for Canna, to the west, but we went south, arranging to meet Entre Amis, who were planning to round the point that day. We left just after 10am into initially very light winds, so the engine had to go on, but then the breeze kicked in and we had another excellent single tack sail in improving weather. A bonus on this leg was a pod of dolphins that spent quite a few minutes playing around the bow of the boat and leaping clear of the water – a beautiful sight.

Entre Amis had shown us the way, so we joined them in the anchorage, a couple of hundred metres off a beautiful white sand beach. We watched a family on the beach go swimming; rather them than me, as the temperature was only around 15 degrees! Chris and Mandy joined us by dinghy for tea and biscuits, but then we weakened and cracked open the alcohol. Another meal on board, cards and then, you won’t be surprised to hear, another early night. Oh, the high life we live…

Wednesday 8 July

Today was a red letter day – or maybe that should be blue? We woke to no rain and occasional blue patches. And what was that shining orb in the sky? A while since we’d seen it, so it was good to welcome an old friend. After breakfast, we took the dinghy ashore and walked along the stunning beach and up into the forestry plantation behind the beach. Suddenly, it was too warm. Entre Amis departed for Muck whilst we were ashore; we would be joining them there later on. We returned to the boat a little later, but the outboard (or the user) let us down and Steve and Sally demonstrated their Dragon Boat racing skills under the steely tutelage of bosun Wendy counting out time. Carl, who had remained on board, had prepared the boat for departure and we left around 11.30am with light winds initially, but building as the day went on, resulting in another brisk sail. We arrived off Gallanach Bay about 3pm, with some careful pilotage needed to get us into the anchorage. Chris and Mandy had booked a pizza at the tearoom in Port Mor, but we were too late to do that, so we again ate on board. A relatively cheap week so far. They then joined us for a drink post pizza; another very convivial evening.

Thursday 9 July

The brief weather interlude of the previous day was obviously just that, as we woke to grey skies and drizzle again, the calls of the oystercatchers in the bay a constant aural background. Again, four of us took the dinghy ashore after breakfast and walked the length of the only road on Muck (population 28 at the 2022 census). We landed on the beach, walked through a farmyard and then through the heart of the island to Port Mor, passing the cemetery and the memorial to three drowned fishermen (1895) on the way. We were also greeted by a man walking his dog, suggesting we were walking very purposefully and if we were hoping to visit the café, we were to be disappointed as it didn’t open until 10.30,am, and he should know, as it was his café! Bang went our hopes of coffee and cake.

We visited the community centre, certainly capacious enough for two or three times the entire island population, then the ferry pier, overlooking the small harbour, and that was as far as one could get on land – and that wasn’t far! Then, back to the beach, onto the boat, again made ready by Carl, and set off at 11.40am for Tobermory, following Entre Amis out.

It was slow progress towards Ardnamurchan Point – I'd made a mistake by towing the dinghy, which really seemed to slow us down. Our progress slowed even more as we approached the point and the wind dropped, so the engine went on. Another easy rounding as the tide was on the turn in our favour into the Sound of Mull. We tried sailing again, but eventually resorted to the engine. As we neared Tobermory, the weather brightened up on the Mull side of the channel, resolutely grey on the mainland side. We were followed into Tobermory by Perseverance, a near-40m superyacht. Its appearance divided opinion, but it was undoubtedly expensive and big, the tall mast needing a red light on the top at night.

We found a pontoon next to Star of Oban and opposite Entre Amis. Martin’s boat had stayed in Coll the previous evening whilst David and crew had come to Tobermory and were currently in Loch Spelve. For the first time this trip, pre-dinner drinks, kindly supplied by Star of Oban, were taken in the cockpit in sunshine. Wonderful! The crews of Iota and Entre Amis then dined together in the Gallery, enjoyed by all, with the crew of Star of Oban dining elsewhere, although some of that crew later joined us aboard Iota for a nightcap. 

The crew of Morning Star took the dinghy ashore in Loch Spelve, for the first time all week, to investigate the mussel farm and returned with 5kg of mussels for the princely sum of £7 (honesty fridge).  Fortunately they had white wine, cream and onions left so the only culinary issue was finding a pot big enough...

Friday 10 July

Our final day afloat and all boats were converging on Oban and none of us wanted to be too late getting there as the Clipper fleet was in and it was thought that the North Pier pontoons might be busy. Star of Oban and Iota had to re-fuel in Tobermory, the skipper of the former leading the way and encountering good old Scottish hospitality from the tour boats (yer nae supposed to be here, laddie!) - or words to that effect, dealt with by Martin with his usual aplomb.

There had been a brief shower of rain, the weather providing a reminder that it wasn’t quite finished with us yet, but it was dry by the time we got underway, but with little wind. We motored down to Oban and, as a treat for the crew, tried out the autohelm. It worked…we didn’t. We made it to our destination around 2.30pm and the helpful chaps from OYC were on the pontoons to help us with berthing, which wasn’t an issue in the event.

After a full Scottish Morning Star had a lovely gentle sail from Mull, seeing otters and what looked like a stooshie of haggi at the water's edge. With impecable timing they arrived at the entrance to Kerrera Sound just as the Team Scotland Clipper crossed the finish line in front of them.

By now, there were seven Clipper yachts on the breakwater, with lots of activity. As each yacht arrived, there was clapping and cheering and then the crew was ceremoniously led up on to the pier by a piper in full regalia. That really was a Scottish welcome and a great party atmosphere.

All boat crews assembled on Iota for a pre-dinner drink in sunshine, then we were off to EE-Usk for a great meal together to round off another wonderful HOEOCA sailing trip, greatly enjoyed by those of us on Iota, despite the less than uplifting weather. And all our boats are now entitled to sport a bunch of heather on their pulpits,having rounded Ardnamurchan. We'll be back as there’s so much to explore in this beautiful sailing ground.

Grateful thanks to Ray for organising the trip and to Mary for arranging the dinner on our last evening. And finally, thumbs up for my super crew, Wendy, Carl, Sally and Steve, who helped make our travels trouble-free and entirely pleasurable.

PS Many thanks to Wendy for her suggestion for the title of this piece.