A very civilized start to our journey to Italy with a departure time of 1030 from Claverdon and a party on the
bus to celebrate the 50th birthday of a somewhat embarrassed member. Balloons, sparkling wine, birthday cake and pork pies plus a quiz based on 1961. Can you tell who it is yet? All was going well at Gatwick until we were checked through boarding to be told the Easy Jet plane wasn’t there! 3 hours later we boarded minus a “bumped” Ian MacWhinnie who had been tardy to check back in and spent the night UK side before joining us in a €250 taxi the next day. Meanwhile we arrived at Palermo just before 2300 and at Sant’ Agata di Militello marina, very tired and hungry, just before 0100. Our boats Theonicussa (Lavezzi 40’), Amethyst (Oceanis 43’) and Marlissa (Bavaria 46’) awaited us with a bottle of water to drink. Marlissa made a trek for pizza and beer, others went to bed.
The following day dawned very hot and quite cloudy. Handovers, paperwork and shopping took up the morning followed by much needed food and drink. All being in order, we left for the Aeolian Islands at lunchtime but sadly some had to motor most of the 30M voyage in order to get into the marina at Pignato, just north of Lipari Town, as darkness fell. This was our first experience of the high cost of mooring in the area, an average €80 per night for a pontoon, water and electricity but no loos or showers! Lipari is the main island of the seven so a busy ferry port and a charming town with an old citadel and amazing narrow streets in which to dine and explore.
Sicily claims to be the home of ice cream and we sampled some of them next morning before
leaving for anchorages on the north of the island for lunch and swimming, where one of the brave crew on Marlissa wrestled with a jellyfish, before a cracking 15M sail across to the town of St Pietro where we were on buoys at a mere €50 per night! Panerea is the smallest, prettiest and most up market of the islands with a look of Greece about it, great for watching beautiful people and window shopping. From here we were able to watch Stromboli, our next destination, erupting gently.
Tuesday brought another good sail across to St Vincenzo on Stromboli. The
volcano is best viewed from the north side from where you can see the detritus being expelled and rolling down the lava covered slopes. Once moored onto our bargain priced buoys, a mere €35 (apparently 50% of the previous week,) only Marlisa decided to undertake the recommended twilight trip to see the flames against the night sky. The other boats enjoyed a warm glow over the mountain top whilst eating on board. The morning brought multiple dinghy rides ashore to explore although we discovered that the guided climbs happen in the evening, probably as a result of the high temperatures we were experiencing and also to see the fireworks at close hand as the light failed. Some visited the museum and spoke to volcanologists about the fascinating history of the island.
Our next destination was Salina, the 2nd largest and most fertile of the islands and again the wind was favourable and now coming from a more normal NW direction, record speeds achieved – 10.7 on the catamaran. Here was a proper marina with showers and loos which naturally came at a price, the flotilla paid nearly €400 in total! As ever the food ashore was delicious, the specialty dish of spaghetti with 14 herbs, the fish and the Malvasia wine being particularly enjoyed. The islands are renowned for capers which came in a variety of sizes and adorned many a dish, and pumice, little bits floated past you in the sea!
This was the first time that we had chartered a catamaran and invitations were extended to
other crews to sail on Thoenicussa “Theo” so naturally the wind now died! The crew all enjoyed the extra space available both down below and on deck, particularly the variety of sun bathing areas, the front netting being an afternoon favourite. The fact that the galley and sailing areas are adjacent also made domestic tasks much easier and dining on board a pleasurable experience. The downside was the additional cost of moorings and fuel and the fact that catamarans do not sail at all well to windward.
Filicudi was our next destination; this along with Alicudi which lies even further west, are the least developed of the Aeolian Islands and mainly visited by walkers. The lack of wind improved the sea state and we were able to swim much more easily to visit one another for drinks and chats. The crew of Marlissa enjoyed the Jazz Festival while, next morning, some of the crew from Amethyst hiked over to a pre-historic village about 30 minutes from Porto Filicudi where we were all on buoys together. In order to catch a certain England rugby match we decided to revisit Lipari on Friday night for the Saturday morning game and to restock our dwindling supplies from the “proper” supermarket there.
Our final destination was the island of Vulcano, best known for its lunar landscape, sulphurous smells
and mud baths. As the weather was settled we were able to anchor in Porto di Pomente on the first night before moving round to Porto di Levante on the second where Marlisa hosted a cocktail party of 2 halves. The energetic walked up to the smoking crater at the crack of dawn whilst some of the party indulged in a mud bath to help ease rheumatic limbs.
All to soon it was time to head back to Sant’Agata, stopping to swim and lunch midway, and enjoying a final anchorage and swim outside the port. We had our final cocktail party on the catamaran (a BYO affair) before a mini bus ride to a restaurant for a final meal together.
Good things: Clean, well maintained boats, experiencing a catamaran, lovely hot weather (no rain at all), sailing for the first half, swimming for the second, the availability of a wide range of fresh fruit and vegetables, lovely bread and some excellent evening meals
Not such good things: the delayed flight, a lack of facilities of Sant’Agata, the high cost of mooring (and life generally), jellyfish, not many opportunities for a full get together, coming home!
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